🔗 Connect Like a Pro, Switch Like a Boss!
The TESmart 16×1 HDMI Switch is a professional-grade 4K@60Hz HDMI switcher featuring 16 input ports, HDCP 2.2 compliance, and multiple control methods including IR remote, RS232, and LAN. Designed for seamless integration into 19-inch racks, it supports auto-scan switching and intelligent EDID emulation for uninterrupted, high-quality video management.
L**Y
Great HDMI switch with some gotchas that make it hard to configure the LAN control
I give this 5 stars for good functionality at a reasonable price, but there are several issues to be aware of. First, this functions well as advertised. It's an 8x1 HDMI switcher supporting HDCP 2.2 and 4K (3840 x 2160) @ 60Hz. Switching can be controlled by front panel buttons, IR remote, RS-232, or Ethernet/IP.I use these on TVs where I have many HDMI devices that I want to toggle between. I have used this with Google TV, BluRay, Ubiquiti ViewPort, Roku, and other types of devices. I primarily use the Ethernet/LAN/IP control capabilities. I have Lutron keypads set to select the TV input. Programming the Lutron Homeworks QS system to enable switching HDMI inputs is relatively simple.Here are the downsides to this device:- The RS-232 port is a 3-pin connector that must be wired to a 9-pin Female D-type RS-232 connector to use the port. It's not hard to do, but this does not connect to a standard RS-232 cable out of the box. You will need to make a custom cable if you want to use RS-232. The manufacturer should include a 3-pin to 9-pin Female D-Type RS-232 adapter.- The LAN/Ethernet port comes set to a static 192.128.1.10/24 IP address. It does not use DHCP. The IP address requires using a custom Windows utility to configure. The Windows system running the custom utility must either connect to the static 192.128.1.10 address or use the RS-232 port. The device does not have a Web browser interface. It listens for hex commands on the IP address port (default 5000) in the same format as on the RS-232 interface. There needs to be a way to configure the IP address without using a Windows PC.- There is no way to factory reset the device. If you set the IP address wrong and are unable to connect over IP, you must use the RS-232 port to reset the IP address. The device should have a factory reset button or button sequence.Aside from these negatives, which make setting up the device more complicated than necessary, these are great little HDMI switches. I'm about to install the 16-input version on my main living room display, where I frequently switch between multiple security camera views and different AV devices.
S**K
A professional grade HDMI switch
The TESmart 8 and 16-port HDMI switches are professional grade switches. They're many times more expensive than the cheap little 3-6 port switch boxes littering Amazon because they're better engineered and more reliable.This is a review of the 8-port switch labeled "4k@30".This switch is primarily aimed at the professional integrator market as it comes with rack mount hardware, an IR extension and options for controlling the switch via IR, RS232 or Ethernet. Provided you have the space, it also works great in a non-pro level home theater setup as well.The switch comes very safely packed and in addition to the IR extension and rack mounting hardware, it also comes with an IR remote.Out of the box, the switch is configured to automatically switch inputs whenever it detects a source has been powered on so in that sense it's plug-and-play. However you may want to adjust its behavior a little. For one thing it emits an annoying loud beep whenever it switches sources.To adjust the switch you'll need a laptop running Windows and an Ethernet cable. They don't exactly go out of their way to tell you where the software is, but you should find it if you go to http://www.tesla-smart.com/Downloads and look for the link labeled "HSW0801AXX application for Windows XP/7/8/10". The switch uses a default IP of 192.168.1.10 so you'll need to plug the Ethernet cable into the front panel of the switch and your laptop and set your Ethernet card's IPv4 settings to some other address in that subnet (i.e. 192.168.1.9) and subnet mask to class C (255.255.255.0), then run the software. Switch the software to "Ethernet" (it may be called "Network" - I don't have it right in front of me) and tell it to find the switch. From there you'll be able to disable the beep, turn auto-switching off or on, and set the input display to shut off after a short timeout.One major drawback of this switch is the exceedingly bright blue LED display. I consider a serious design flaw that there are not controls to lower the brightness. If you're using this switch somewhere in your eye line I would strongly suggest investing in some dimming stickers to take the edge off those LEDs.The switch is listed as supporting 4k@30 content, but in practice I was able to run 4k@60 content through it without any apparent issues. My guess is that the chips being used to handle switching are only rated for 4k@30 but not artificially limited to it.I've had no issues using advanced functionality like CEC through this switch.EDID works flawlessly - even with devices that fail on other switches.Each input has its own button on the front panel, and of course the remote has a corresponding button for each input.The remote control is minimal and, in my opinion, not really essential. Most setups are going to rely on auto-switching which works flawlessly in my experience. The only time you're likely to be switching deliberately between different inputs is if you're using some kind of automation like a Harmony remote. (The TESmart switches are all in the Harmony database, BTW).You should be aware that this switch does NOT support HDMI 2.1, but to my knowledge no switches do right now. If not for this I would say this is likely the last HDMI switch you'll ever need to buy.Final thoughts:This thing is expensive but worth every penny. I have a cardboard box filled with a literal dozen $10 to $30 3-6 port HDMI switches that I've had to remove from my setups over the years because they flaked out, never worked right with certain features, didn't have enough ports etc... If I had just bought one of these in the first place I would have actually saved money. If you need more ports than your TV or AVR provides, getting this TESmart is a no-brainer. If you think there's even a chance you might one day exceed the 8 inputs on this switch (like say if you had an extensive collection of game consoles for example), I absolutely recommend going for the 16x version of this switch - you will not regret it.Pros:- Professional Grade- Reliable- Auto-switching- Configurable- Supports HDCP 2.2- Supports EDID- Supports CEC- Ready out of the box- More compatible than any other switch I've tested- Supports 4k (Actually works with 4k@60, though it's not rated for it)Cons:- Configuration requires a laptop and software (though the software is freely available)- Eye-piercingly bright LCD display- By default emits an annoyingly loud beep whenever sources are switched
E**T
I'd give it less than one star if I could
What a colossal waste of my time. I have twelve devices (game consoles, computers) that can output HDMI at various resolutions and this thing fails miserably. This is advertised to accept "up to 3840x2160". Notice how a list of exact resolutions are not supplied in the specs?Well, while I have devices that output 1080p over HDMI (and those work fine with the switch of course) I have others that output various resolutions over HDMI. For example, the RetroTink (original) outputs 480P over HDMI. But, the switch does not like it. No display. It works fine when connected directly into my TV and it works fine when connected to a five dollar non powered switcher.I have an HDMI card for my Apple IIe. It outputs at 720x480. It doesn't like it. No display. WOrks fine on my TV directly or into the same cheap $5 switch.I have a Sofia2 on the Atari 800. It works, then it does not. I changed the resolution from 1280x960 to 1024x1200, 1366x960 as well. All of these resolutions work direct to the TV and guess where...again the cheap HDMI box.I went out of my way to disconnect everything from the multiple cheap boxes I have in order to clean things up and connect it all to this HDMI matrix...which is a job and it is not cheap. I really expected it all to work. Why would cheap HDMI boxes work but not this expensive matrix?What a waste and what a joke. Everything is connected back to the five dollar boxes now and this trash is going back immediately.Thanks for nothing.
Trustpilot
3 weeks ago
1 month ago