Ground Rod Connector, Hammer Lock, Copper

I liked the fact that all I needed to install it was a hammer. This is not temperamental like cad weld one shots

Works just like it's shown in the photo. Very easy and quick to use and make a solid connection.

The gold standard for connections to ground rods is exothermic or cad-welding the wire to the ground rod. Brazing is good too, but more variable because it depends on the expertise of the person brazing the wire, so is generally not accepted by electrical codes (I always consider brazing to be superior to the "acorn" nuts commonly used to make a ground-rod connection, but I don't write the code books).If you can't use cad-weld to connect your wire, the Hammerlock is the most reliable connection. It can't be reversed, and is UL-listed for underground installation, so your ground rod doesn't need to be installed in a well or stick up above the ground. It is in fact faster than cad-welding, so its convenient for locations where a cad-weld connection isn't required.Be sure to use a ground rod driving sleeve or the ground rod will mushroom from driving and you won't be able to slide the Hammerlock onto the ground rod. (Erico Eritech B137-16 is the driving sleeve for copper-bond 5/8" ground rods). Drive the ground rod down to ground level (or excavate a small hole if you intend to drive it below ground level), place the Hammerlock on the ground rod, insert the ground wire, and hammer the ground rod the rest of the way into the ground.For a more effective ground, extend the ground wire 6-10 feet beyond the ground rod in a ditch, through the Hammerlock. In North America, the National Electrical Code requires this to be a minimum of 2ft below the surface. Ideally, it will be below the frost line, as ice is a good insulator.